22 March 2012


img_1563Hello everybody! This is a first article about Pecka, probably the next greatest sport climbing place in Bosnia. At one hour and a half from Banja Luka by car, that apparently gentle cliff is a kind of small paradise for those who are looking for a vertical trip … even more than vertical! The road to Pecka offers also a nice sight on the typical Bosnian landscape with his hills, dense forests of conifers and somewhere few leaved trees. Julien told me so many times about that cliff, its potential, especially because of its aspect (full southward) and its configuration, allowing to be dry quickly (almost no resurgences) and because of the quality of the rock.


So, the drillers on our backs, we begun to bolt three routes on the main wall. Julien, Igor and me: same fight! Two days were enough to finish drilling and cleaning these three routes of which we are pretty proud because we were so satisfied when climbing the 25 meters of this holed limestone. In fact, there are so many holds in this rock! Used to climb in the mountain of Chartreuse (France) I’m always a bit confused when climbing on a wall of holes in a slight negative slope. For that style of climbing, the position in dihedral or a full-body technique won’t help so much; I always have to struggle to keep power in the exhausting parts.



Climbing, bolting, Pecka in action!


Pecka, it’s around ten cliffs, almost all of those can be climbed and the approach last five minutes from the car, the lazy climbers will appreciate. Pecka is also the certainty to find routes in the fourth or fifth grade (5.5 to 5.8) and a playground for who is looking for the tenth grade (5.13). Pecka is furthermore a quiet place, comfort and our occupation for several years. But before climbing, bolting is necessary so that is the main limitation so far. We are around four climbers bolting and we estimate that around 150 routes can exist here. I let you guess how much time we will need to finish the job! However, we hope that 25 or 30 routes could be made for the firsts summer days.

Today, three routes are finished:
“Lollypop”, bolted by Julien : a merciless line in which the difficulty is, according to him, around 7a - 7b
"Šarena laža", bolted by Igor : a nice logical route, vertical and homogeneous in 6a+ grade
“Honey moon”, bolted by myself : a logical path (always straight) with a surprise at the end (everybody were fooled) and relatively homogeneous in 6a+/6b



Julien working in "Lollypop"



Hi Igor, everything's ok ?



For sure, the electric driller is so handy.
The height of the main wall is between 20 to 25 meters, which is far enough, the routes requires so much intensity and concentration. Indeed, the resting places are often hard to find, the slight permanent negative slope, and the plentiful of one or two finger-pockets will beat your arms all along the route and you will think that 25 m are enough. The cliff is for the time being equipped with strong 10 mm bolts.



In order to have an idea of the height.


Some nice pictures taken while climbing to let you imagine:



Ju holding strongly in Lollypop, sustained efforts!



 Igor, close to the belay he put in his route.



Ju in Honey moon, aesthetic.



Always straight ahead in Honey moon, not very complicated.
 We plan to organize a bolting and climbing contest week in spring. Five days bolting and a two days contest with sun, barbecue and a big party. If you want to participate, contact me. If you have driller, it’s even better. No bolting initiation is planned but no arms will be refused! The dates will be appointed later.



Quick stop at Zelenkovac to introduce the cat in the chimney and his buddy, the three-legged dog.


To conclude, you understood, we talk about Pecka enthusiastically. Such a nice place in France should be quickly full of climbers bolting everywhere but we are in Bosnia, this is therefore an intimate treasure for us. Maybe, one day, it will be an attraction for all around climbers.

I hope that this article can arouse your curiosity and a desire to discover that new place.

Vidimo se



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