Full dobar trip!

22 March 2012

And even more. One year that I was trying to find opportunity and partners to check closer the boulders of Prilep, Macedonia. Hills above the city are looking like ruins, with thousands of pieces disseminated all around, giving to imagination the opportunity to hope the best... Igor finally found this opportunity, and time. This is how we decided quickly to spend three days climbing on what was finally the hugest spot I’ve seen for years.

 

 

But first, transport. Without car everything was done through public transport. Although I have to admit that the night train Beograd – Skopje allows to arrive in decent shape, be patient: three borders, and something like 20 hours on trip.

 

But ... But ... When you reach two hours after your arrival the first boulders ... quality is here. Pure granite, shaped with psychedelic figures, invites you to the essenzia of bouldering. And, what's more, even in this first sector, most of the lines are still to be opened! Walk, loose yourself and find inspiration. Everything around you is here to help the process: easy walk, and a landscape that the Lord of the rings might have been through once.

 

This is how we first tried, with Igor, one of the most obvious lines around us: one boulder, and on it one line of holds leading to a sloppy top. First try, I get scared, I'm high and the foot are high again! But Miha comes and shows us the way. We follow during the day, happy to overcome this first fear.

 

After it's hard to describe, a crazy roof is cleaned, done by Miha for a 7b+/7c, and many other all the three days long... time stopped. The next day was spent around Baba, where Igor found two objectives for the next day... which will finally be next trip! On the third day we couldn't come back, this is how we discovered another area where I could try a sloppy 7c+, then have a walk and discover with Igor what will be the two last lines of the trip. On sight for each of us! We could then observe Urh on his Nelson Mandala, some 8 for sure, and Miha on Predator, 8a. And, in between, dream about a dozen of new lines waiting for brushes.

 

We had the luck to be driven by a band of Slovenians(thanks guys ;-) ) who already came several times, so we didn't have to spend too much time walking and roaming in the chaos looking for the best lines: they were ready! However only a very few of them have chalk. Future is here and we are the actors.

 

And around, other hills hiding other hills. In Prilep everybody will find its paradise, in any style of climbing. Enjoy the classics, open new lines, at each level it's the same story.

 

What's more the city is very pleasant, with the calm atmosphere of south. Take it easy and go in one of the local restaurants. Have a walk on the market place and meet its characters. Or, for a day rest, just take a walk on the hills and discover the next area to explore.

 

This is how Igor and I spent three days of dream, discovering a new sector everyday, and dozens of projects hidden behind the existing lines. Some things will stay in our minds for some time, until we can come back stronger and complete what has been tried and imagined. Because now we can doubt: maybe it was just a dream....

Considering the photos, the answer is no, Prilep exists, and a part of our thoughts is now struck on the hills, just above the Macedonian city.

 

Julien

/em

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