Report Pecka rock climbing festival 2016

01 July 2016

Šesti po redu Pecka Rock Climbing festival je iza nas, vrijeme je da sumiramo utiske sa ovogodišnje Pecke. Vjerujete nam nimalo lak zadatak, iza nas su ostala četiri dana fenomenalnog druženja  sa novim prijateljima, pregršt novih iskustava, više od stotinu smjerova,  oko dvije stotine učesnika, jedan psihodeličan forest party, forest cinema, jedna highline linija, nekoliko slackline linija, oko pedesetak šarenih šatora koji su krasili proplanke Ubovicća brda i još mnogo toga.

Ali da krenemo ispočetka, po prvi put otkako se održava PRCF, festival je trajao jedan dan duže (4 dana), no izgleda da ni to nije bilo dovoljno pa su neki odlučili da produže svoj boravak i spakuju svoje šatore malo kasnije. Zavidimo im, posao i surova svakodnevnica je većinu nas otjerala u nedjelju svojim domovima.

Dan prvi: četvrtak (19. maj)

Po starom dobrom običaju, prvi dan festivala je rezervisan za one najupornije ali i za kišu, koja nas ni ove godine nije iznevjerila, hvala joj...... Među prvima koji su podigli svoje šatore u kampu su naravno bili članovi našeg penjačkog kluba Extreme iz Banja Luke, ubrzo im se pridružuju i gosti iz Njemačke i Austrije, Španije kao i Hrvatske, početak i više nego obećavajući, logorska vatra je dodatno ugrijala atmosferu te večeri a druženje nastavljeno do kasno u noć. Kiša koja je počela da jača u toku noći je primorala neke od učesnika da se presele u kućicu u obližnjem selu gdje se žurka nastavlja.

Dan drugi: petak (20. maj)

Spavalo se malo duže, kiša i prethodno večer su ostavili svoje tragove... ;) Stižu i ostali učesnici, ekipe iz Srbije, Škotske, Mađarske, SAD-a, Slovenije, BIH. Registracija učesnika, probavanje zvaničnih festivalskih majica, preuzimanje festivalskih vodiča. Najuporniji penju, sporadično vlažna stijena im naravno ne smeta, nema izgovora...

Postavljamo highline sa drugarima iz Slovenije koji spaja sektore Seoska olupina i Pramac, dužina 50-ak metara, low tension linija, samo za one hrabre... ;) Nema veze, sutra ćemo joj dati još tenzije,  sa prvim koracima na higline-u, probijaju se i prvi zraci sunca, gotovo filmska  atmosfera. Nakon toga odlazimo u kamp, nastavljamo druženje  do kasno u noć, pun mjesec se pojavljuje na nebu- dobar znak, sutra nas možda probude sunčevi zraci, laku noć……

Dan treći: subota (21. maj)

Ustaje se rano, vrijeme obećava, napokon sunce. Učesnici još uvijek pristižu, među njima i naši prijatelji iz Belgije i Australije. Sektori su od ranih jutarnjih časova krcati penjačima, poslijepodne im se pridružuju i najmlađi penjači, članovi našeg kluba koji su zajedno sa svojim roditeljima posjetili festival i sudeći po onom što su pokazali na stijeni, sljedeće godine ćemo imati još vise klinaca na PRCF….. Cjelodnevno penjanje na sektorima se nastavlja uz pauzu za rucak, neki su odmor potražili u hladu šume, neki ležeći u hammocku na highline-u.

Večer se blizi,  čuje se zvuk agregata u daljini, gase se svjetla ;), počinje kino projekcija, na repertoaru su uglavnom kratki penjački filmovi iz zemalja učesnika festivala.

Nakon kina, vrijeme je za party, DJ Filip je na nivou zadatka, kao i obično, možemo slobodno reći da je resident žurki Penjačkog kluba Extreme. Rakiju i pivo dobrodošlice možete preuzeti na improvizovanom šanku, atmosfera se zagrijava. Disco kugla u šumi, ništa neobično kada je u pitanju ovakav format žurke. Party traje do kasno u noć, a kakav bi to party bio da nema dobar after koji se odvijao pod okriljem sektora Maršal…

Dan četvrti: nedjelja ( 22. maj)

Ustaje se kasno, prepričavaju se iskustva sa sinoćnje zurke, lagani doručak, kafa, i kreće se put sektora  na lagano nedjeljno penjanje. Stiže i TV ekipa, izjave učesnika i organizatora, ispraćamo prijatelje koji moraju ranije krenuti kući, pred njima je nova radna sedmica.

Ponovno se okupljamo u kampu, vrijeme je za zajedničku fotografiju, proglašenje pobjednika i uručivanje simboličnih nagrada. Pozdravljamo prijatelje koji odlaze, spremamo kamp, i mi se polako spremamo za polazak, oni sretniji ostaju još nekoliko dana u kampu.

Hvala svima i vidimo se  sljedeće godine.

Over and Out.

P.S. Evo i spiska novih smjerova koji su opremljen pred i tokom festival:

  • Projekt 8a?, sektor Ludi šeširdžija, opremio Igor Vukić
  • Kraljevi sarme 7b+, sektor Ludi šeširdžija, opremio Julian Mayet i Igor Vukić
  • Kraljevi svijeta 8a+?, sektor Ludi šeširdžija, opremio Julian Mayet
  • Tobi or not to be 7c, sektor Plaža, opremio Tobias Mrowietz
  • Projekt , sektor Cunami, opremio Dirk Uhlig
  • Projekt , sektor Cunami, opremio Gerald Köteles
  • Pastrmka 5c , sektor Cunami, opremio Gerald Köteles
  • Projekt , sektor Šumski, opremio Dirk Uhlig
  • Projekt , sektor Šumski, opremio Gerald Köteles

Ukupan broj do sada opremljenih smjerova na Peckoj iznosi preko 120. :)

Pecka Rock Climbing Festival 19 - 22 May 2016

19 April 2016

 Brace yourself, the Pecka festival is coming! For the sixth time in a row you can expect world class climbing and delicious local food. Those, who are visiting us for the first time, can try on rakija, kajmak and pie and climb in the kingdom of pockets on Margalef Style Rock!


There are more than 100 routes of different styles, grades from 5a to 8c+. The length of the routes is generally between 15 and 35 meters.

The rules are the same as in the previous years: come, climb and have fun! :) However, we have something for those who are in a competitive mood: For those who climb the most new routes and the most difficult routes we will prepare some nice small awards.

All participants pay a small fee of 5 euros and will receive free camping a printed guide and a festival T-shirt. More information about the camp and the climbing area (in addition to the GUIDE) competitors will be able to get from the organisers at the festival or just drop us a line beforehand.

This year we will hava again a small special, the Pecka Forest Cinema, where climbing films from the region will be displayed and a Forest party in the mystic atmosphere of the Pecka woodland!!

See you! :)

 

Basic information:

 

Accommodation: A camping place is reserved, no electricity (but, there is a possibility of charging electrical devices in the village, located 5 minutes walking from the campsite)

Food: Not provided. There is a shop approximately 5km away, on the way to the camp. It is possible to buy domestic products (bread, kajmak, eggs, rakija…) and whole meals in the village.

Registration fee: Registration fee for the festival is 10 BAM or 5 EUR.

Registration: Registration of participants is done online, by clicking HERE.


Preliminary programme: (times stated in the schedule are reference-only, and are susceptible to change, depending on the wishes of the participants, the weather...)


Thursday , 19th May

Welcome and acquaintance with the organisation of the camp:

Bolting and climbing the whole day

20:00h – Opening of the festival and meeting with basic information

20:15h - Partying and hanging out :)

 

Friday , 20th May

Bolting and climbing the whole day

20:15h - Partying and hanging out :)

Saturday, 21th May

Whole day climbing

20:00h - Dinner and Pecka Forest Cinema

21:30h - Pecka Forest Party

Sunday, 22th May

09:00h - 12:00h - Climbing

12:00h - Award presenting ceremony and photos

 

After the festival all interested participants will be able to prolong their stay in the camp.

 

How to get to the festival?

The climbing area Pecka is located in the municipality of Mrkonjić Grad, near Baraći village, located on the road Mrkonjić Grad – Glamoč. From Baraći you only need to follow the signs to the resort Ubovića Brdo/Nikoletići and climbing Pecka (see the camp site marked on Google Maps).
 

If coming from the north/Banja Luka.

Check the route marked on Google Maps.

The easiest (and most beautiful) way is to travel directly south the M16 regional road from Banja Luka, through canyon Tijesno, towards Jajce and later turn right in the direction of Mrkonjić Grad. In Mrkonjić Grad you need to turn towards Ribnik/Ključ and when you cross the overpass (just after the crossroads) drive for about 8 km to the turnoff for Glamoč. At this juncture there is a gas station. From that turn, drive straight (pass near the resort and eco zone Zelenkovac), to the village Baraći. There you should turn right (signpost Pecka) and then follow the signs for the last 7 km to Ubovića Brdo/Nikoletići.

It is also possible to travel from Banja Luka to Baraći by bus that goes to Glamoč. From there you can go on foot or call someone from the organizers to come and get you. Another option, for those who want a little adventure, is to go to Mrkonjić Grad, with relatively frequent buses, and from there hitchhike to Baraći.
 

If coming from the south (Sarajevo, Mostar).

The easiest way is to use the regional road M16 towards Jajce. In Jajce, turn left towards Mrkonjić Grad and Jezero. Near Jezero, turn left again towards the Šipovo. You need to go through Šipovo and continue to Baraći. In Baraći turn left and after about 20 meters you will reach the turn to Pecka/Ubovića Brdo. From there follow the route as described above.
 

From abroad.

For those who live relatively close to the north of B&H, it is best to go by car via Zagreb and/or Gradiška to Banja Luka, and then follow the instructions above. Or travel by public transport to Zagreb and then by bus or train to Banja Luka. After that, follow the instructions above.

If coming from the south (Dalmatia, Montenegro, Macedonia...), look VIA MICHELIN and enter the destination Baraći.

For those who live further on - the easiest way is to fly to Zagreb, Tuzla or Belgrade (Wizzair, Germanwings, Ryanair, Easyjet, etc.). Then a bus or train to Banja Luka. From Banja Luka to use public transport as described above.

We can provide transportation from BL with prior notice of at least four days before the beginning of the festival. It is possible that fuel costs will be charged, so contact us beforehand in order to make arrangements.
 

Note:

- Bring your own quickdraws, they will not be clipped in routes. 

- All competitors are encouraged to use helmets while climbing and belaying.

- Climbing with top rope, shall be punished by whipping :)

- If you want to order something from the local food (kajmak!!!, milk, bread, pies, rakija...) it is recommended to contact us in advance to leave our hosts enough time to prepare, and to avoid a long wait.

 

Cover photo by Klemen Bečan.

Banjaluka - Beograd Boulder League (3BL) call

19 January 2016

Dragi penjači,

pozivamo vas da učestvujete u 3B Ligi (Banjaluka - Beograd Boulder Liga) koju organizuju Penjački klub Extreme, Banjaluka i Penjački klub Granit, Beograd. Liga se satoji iz dva kola od kojih će se prvo održati 13.02.2016. godine u Banjaluci, dok će drugo biti održano 20.02.2016. godine u Beogradu. Više informacije o prvo kolu:

  • Početak takmičenja: 13.02.2016. u 9:00h
  • Lokacija: Sala penjačkog kluba Extreme u Banjaluci
  • Način takmičenja: Takmičari će penjati 50+ smjerova raznih težina (biće za svakog ponešto) 12h, dakle do 21h nakon čega slijedi proglašenje pobjednika kola i druženje. Svaki smjer će nostiti 1000 bodova koji će se dijeliti sa brojem uspona. 
  • Kotizacija: 10 KM ili 5 EUR
  • Prijava i dodatne informacije: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. ili +387 65 779 027
  • Ostalo: U nedjelju nakon takmičenja će biti organizovan odlazak na jedno od penjališta u blizini.

Pozdrav i vidimo se!

Drill and Chill Festival 2015

27 August 2015

 

Climbing club "Extreme", together with our friend from Vienna, David Lemmerer, will organise the Drill & Chill bolting festival in canyon Tijesno from 18. - 27. September. The festival will gather bolters from the region and Europe.

Climb all august for only 15KM!

11 August 2015

U toku mjeseca avgusta penjite u našoj penjačkoj sali za samo 15KM. Treninzi se održavaju ponedjeljkom i četvrtkom od 19:30h do 22:30h. Svu opremu za penjanje ćete dobiti u sali, a vaše je da ponesete neku udobnu odjeću i dobro raspoloženje. :-) Za više informacija pišite nam na naš email   This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. .

Project: Climb together! Sign in!

11 August 2015

Penjački klub Extreme, Banja Luka  u saradnji sa gradom Banja Luka realizuje projekat PENJIMO ZAJEDNO. Ovim putem objavljujemo poziv svim zainteresovanim licima da uzmu učešće u realizaciji projekta kroz koji je planirana besplatna osnovna obuka i penjački treninzi u trajanju od mjesec dana, uz nadzor trenera i stručnih lica.

Planirana je obuka za polaznike koji će biti podijeljeni u dve grupe:

I grupa  (djeca uzrasta od 7-15 god.), termin: utorak 19:00-21:00h

II grupa (omladinci uzrasta od 15-30 god.), termin: petak 19:00-21:00h

Obuka i treninzi za polaznike počinju 18.08.2015 (utorak) za I grupu i 21.08.2015 (petak) za II grupu, a realizovaće se u toku mjesec dana.

Prijave za učešće u treninzima i obuci slati na mail This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. "> This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. , a u prijavi navesti sljedeće podatke (ime, prezime, datum rođenja i kontakt telefon)

Rok za prijave je 16.08.2015. godine, a prednost imaju lica koja se do sada nisu bavila sportskim penjanjem.

Klemen Bečan: Pecka rock climbing festival 2015

18 June 2015

"Last year we wanted to go to Bosnia and Herzegovina for the Pecka climbing festival but our plans fell into the water. Since than we couldn't find time to visit this place and see what Bosnian rocks has to offer. This year looked the same. On the weekend of the festival it was raining again so luckily they decided to postponed it for the next weekend and ordered some sun from the sky spirits."

Read a full story HERE.

Klemen, legendo, thanks for coming and see you again! :-)

Looking back at PRCF 2014

08 April 2015

If there is something that marked the festival(s) at Pecka in 2014 that would be bad weather. Catastrophic floods in B&H and the region happened less than two weeks before the festival was due in May. Instead of harnesses on rocks, our members were wearing rubber boots working in various volunteer groups, helping the victims or clearing the roads from debris.

Tragedies happen and postponing our festival was the least of the problems that happened as the result of the floods. OK, never mind, we'll try again. The new dates for Pecka are set to 5th to 7th September. David and I arrive a week earlier to equip more routes together. The weekend before the festival we arrive at Pecka, where we find perfect conditions. The location for new routes is set, the ropes are installed, the hammers pound and the drills roar.

We enjoy the contact with the rocks and we equip several nice routes. The next day, a bad omen awaits us. It starts to rain. We collect our stuff and go back to Banja Luka. Every day, we check the weather forecast every day, we look up to the sky, and make new plans and combinations, but the rain doesn't stop.

Before the festival there is a decision to make. To postpone the festival or no. Climbers from all around contact us: “Is the festival going to take place?” eventually we decide – we’re going to Pecka. The weather already spoiled our fun once, now we’re going whatever happens.

We arrive at the camping place. There – a car with German licence plates is parked? We wake up a tired climber, who as it turns out is from the US, but lives like a nomad from craig to craig searching for new challenges. Daniel was so attracted by the photos from Pecka that he left Frankenjura and drove to us to taste the first-class rocks of Pecka (actually his 90 days in EU expired so he came to Pecka to fill the time before the Petzl Rock Trip, but we like to see it differently).

On the same day Dagna and Anel arrive. A nice couple of world travellers, adventure seekers and before all good people from Poland and B&H. Last time I read something about them they were in Asia. If you are reading this, I hope you’re having a lot of fun and meaningful adventures. Good luck!

Žarko Kaličanin, father Kalnik and climber from Croatia, came for festival as well. Thanks and hope to see you this year too!

Last surprise comes from Bulgaria. Three bold climbers hopped into the car, drove 800km one way for the weekend to visit us. Cheers legends!

As it turns out, we have our friend Berengere to thank for our visitors from Bulgaria and US, that posted this event on Couchsurfing. Thanks Beki!

Except for that thanks for the crew from Austria: David, Gari and Barbara that helped out. Especially David that visits us every year and helps with the organisation of the festival.

Believe it or not we managed to climb even! And it was much better than we expected. Saturday we climbed in fog and on Sunday in slight drizzle :) Since many new routes are positively slanted, they were too wet to climb, so we climbed mostly on sector Plaža. We climbed, we fell, we led new personal records and we screwed around! Daniel also tried Julien’s Svinjologija (8a) that was one of the driest routes.

All in all, it paid off not to let the rain drive us back. There was climbing, rain, food, drinks, laughter, kissing, and who knows what else :) We got everything that such an event should offer and we did not let the rain spoil our mood.

Now, onwards to PCF 2015!

Climbing Sunday

11 November 2014

Penjački klub Extreme organizuje u nedjelju 16.11.2014. dešavanje pod nazivom Climbing Sunday. Početak dešavanja je u 18h kada svi zainteresovani mogu besplatno da probaju penjanje. Nakon toga u 20h slijedi projekcija penjačkog filma i druženje. Za dodatne infomacije obratite nam se putem email-a This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. . Vidimo se!

Impressions from Pecka

11 November 2014

Now, rewind a month. In Bosnia, all of the research I did concerning local climbing pointed in one obvious direction – Pecka. Pecka is a climbing area near Banja Luka (my hometown!) and about a three hour drive from Sarajevo. Pecka also is the site of an annual climbing festival, hosted by the Bosnian climbing club extremebl (www.extremebl.com) and houses the most potential for future sport climbing development in Bosnia, or so I have read. ..

You can read a full article on the blogspot of Jasne Hodžić by clicking  HERE. Thanks Jasna for the great article!

Contact

Come, train, explore yourself, find friends, camp, travel, feel the freedom, feel the nature, become a part of this adventure!

Call:
 +387 65 779 027
 +387 65 303 034
 +387 66 889 859

Email:
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Visit:

Extreme Studentski penjački centar
Kampus Univerziteta u Banja Luci
Bulevar vojvode Petra Bojovića 1 (zgrada kotlovnice)
78000 Banja Luka

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Gym working time

Monday: 19h - 22h
Tuesday: 19h - 22h
Thursday: 19h - 22h
Sunday: 19h - 22h

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